BALI, Indonesia, September 1, 2010 (Travel & Leisure Southeast Asia) — They work in sumptuous surrounds, dream up gourmet menus and plate perfectly executed dishes with panache. But where do Bali’s top chefs go in their time off? Here, we ask five for their favorite local eats. By SAMANTHA BROWN


Will Meyrick, the Australian talent behind Seminyak’s salubrious Southeast Asian eatery Sarong (, is famous for his menus inspired by the region’s street food. It’s no surprise, then, that he favors local Javanese joint Kolega (Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak; 62-852/3794-9778; lunch for two 50,000 rupiah). “It’s an East-meets-West type of place, where the people eating range from Indonesian office workers to local expats getting their rendang fixes,” he says. His dish of choice? The perkedel, or Indonesian croquettes, made of potato and beef or fish dipped in egg white, then deep-fried to achieve a crispy skin; he even serves up his own take, using Wagyu beef, at Sarong.

BRANDON HUISMAN | The Balé & The Amala

Brandon Huisman, the Cordon Bleu–trained executive chef of The Balé ( in Nusa Dua and The Amala ( in Seminyak, winds down at Warung Puri Boga (Permata Nusa Dua Block G7, Siligita; 62-361/771-729; dinner for two with drinks 100,000 rupiah), a converted house in the neighborhood where he lives. “It’s very peaceful and charming,” he says of the husband-and-wife-run operation. Try the pork satay, which Huisman labels the best on the island. “The owner adds terasi or shrimp paste to the marinade,” he says. “On its own it’s not palatable, but as a flavor enhancer for local dishes it’s fantastic.” When an Italian craving strikes, Huisman drops by Nusa Dua Pizza (Bypass Nusa Dua 57×1; 62 361 806-6616; dinner for two with drinks 200,000 rupiah), where he’ll order the bacon and blue cheese pizza. “I usually request some sliced fresh chili on top to add a bit of a kick,” he says.

ENRICO WAHL | The Oberoi

Mannekepis (Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 2, Seminyak; 62-361/847-5784; lunch or dinner with drinks for two around 450,000 rupiah) boasts great, uncomplicated Belgian food with live music, mostly jazz, that entices Enrico Wahl, executive chef at The Oberoi ( Go for the Belgian stew with Guinness, he urges. “It’s traditional, earthy and sturdy, just like something your Mum used to cook,” he says. They also do a good pork pate and goat cheese salad, he adds. German-born Wahl also recommends Chinese restaurant Feyloon (Jalan Raya Kuta No. 98; 62-361/766-308; dinner for two with drinks 600,000 rupiah). “Chinese food is so complex I would not step into cooking it myself—many try to copy it and cannot,” says Wahl, who prefers instead to tuck into Feyloon’s hot-and-sour soup and classic takes on jellyfish and sea cucumber.


At Naughty Nuri’s Warung (Jalan Raya Sanggingnan, Ubud; 62-361/977-547;; cocktails and dinner for two 450,000 rupiah), New Yorker Brian Aldinger creates a welcoming, buzzy atmosphere while his wife, Nuri Suryatmi, oversees a kitchen famed for its delectable, melt-off-the-bone pork ribs. It’s a combination that Amanda Gale, executive chef of the COMO Group based at COMO Shambala Estate (, highly recommends savoring in combination with their maragaritas—“Two being the limit!” she warns. “Make sure you ask for extra barbecue sambal sauce and if you want to be really naughty, order the fried potato chips with kecap manis and chili sauce.” Puteri Minang (Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud; 62-361/975-577; dinner for two with drinks 100,000 rupiah), a bustling nasi padang joint, serves a range of cuisine from Sumatra, and is another of Gale’s favourites. Her suggested dishes include the chicken rendang, jackfruit and choko curry, boiled cassava leaf, green chili sambal and corn cakes.


Babi guling is probably Bali’s most fabulous gastronomic creation and visitors wanting to sample it should put themselves in the safe hands of Ibu Oka, reckons Chris Salans from award-scooping Mozaic ( The eponymous Ubud warung (Jalan Suweta/Tegal Sari No. 2, Ubud; 62-361/976-345; lunch for two 100,000 rupiah) might be crowded, with dogs loitering as people jostle for a spot at low-slung tables and wait a long time to be served, “but when it finally comes, it all becomes worth it,” Salans says. A standard plate includes generous slices of the roasted, spiced pork, crackling, blood sausage, coconut vegetables and rice. Another of Salan’s favored regular haunts is Japanese restaurant Ryoshi (Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur; 62-361/288-473; dinner for two with drinks 200,000 rupiah). “From cold appetizers to hot mains, sushi, sashimi, noodles and lots of other dishes, nothing disappoints,” he says.

/ Food